GI – GII Expedition
An Austrian team was the first to reach Gasherbrum II’s summit. following a route up the south face along the southwest ridge
in 1956. The Austrian team pioneered a new approach to climbing. During the ascent. night overtook the climbers at about
7.500 meters (24.600 feet). Rather than turning back to camp. they spent the night huddled near a cliff with no gear other than
what they were carrying—a technique known as bivouacking. It was the first time a team deliberately bivouacked the night
before attempting to summit an eight-thousander.
Gasherbrum I (8068m) & Gasherbrum II (8035m) are located in the Karakoram Range in Pakistan at the border Of Pak – China.
This Range also has four 8000m peak include K2 (8611m). Borad Peak and Gasherbrum I-II. there are more than 60 peaks above
7000m and even more 6000m peaks.
In modern mountaineering Gasherbrum II is the safest and easiest peak to climb in Karakoram 8000m peaks. This peak offer
ideal choice for suitable experience in order to attempt first 8000m.
Gasherbrum II world thirteenth tallest mountain and third in Pakistan, An Austrian Expedition led by Firtz Moravec mad the first
summit through south face normal rout in 1956 on July 8.
Gasherbrum I world eleventh and third in Pakistan was first climbed on July 5. 1958 by Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman of
an eight-man American expedition led by Nicholas B. Clinch. Richard K. Irvin. Tom Nevison, Tom McCormack. Bob Swift and Gil
Roberts were also members of the team.
Details
Depart from your own destination, arriving Islamabad the next day and transfer to the hotel for a few hours'
sleep. After an early breakfast we return to the airport for the flight to Skardu, which usually departs mid-
morning. Given good weather this is perhaps the most spectacular commercial flight in the world. with
magnificent views of Nanga Parbat the ninth highest mountain in the world. The flight however will not
operate in poor weather. and you must be prepared for a wait in Islamabad if the flight is cancelled
In case of cancellation of flight (13-14 hrs) drive by coach to Chilas (480 km) on Karakoram Highway. Or Drive
to Chilas via the Babusar Pass 4173m. Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation Of 4.173 m (13,691
ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley. Pakistan. The pass connects the
Kaghan Valley via the ThakNala with Chilas on the Karakoram Highway. It's one of the famous hair pinned roads
in the world.
Complete road journey (10-11 hrs) to Skardu (275 km) En-route has good view of Nanga Parbat (8125m) at
junction of Indus River and the rapids and fall of Indus River.
Full day for official formalities and final preparation of Expedition at Skardu.
After a free day in Skardu. we travel by Jeep to Askole, the last village between us and K2. This journey takes
about 7 hours and is on very rough narrow tracks often blocked / damaged by landslides.
We set off early to avoid the heat of the day. We follow the Braldu river valley through green pastures and after
crossing the BiafO River we skirt around the base Of the terminal moraines Of the Glacier for lunch at Korophon.
Beyond here a new path has been cut through the cliffs making the walk to camp straightforward. 7 to 8 hours
walking.
We continue up the Braldo River. sometimes close to the raging water, sometimes taking a higher path used by
pack animals. If the weather is clear we get our first glimpse of Broad Peak today. Despite the stories in old
guide books and journals. much has been done in recent years to remove rubbish and human waste to leave a
much cleaner environment with well managed camps.7 to 8 hours walking.
An important resting day follows when the porters will prepare their food for the trek ahead. We will make a
side excursion to gain some altitude from where we can get superb views up the Baltoro Glacier.
Today we should get our first distant sight Of Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums. A shorter day Of walking up
the glacier to the campsite which is located on a grassy slope high above the Baltoro and commands one of
the most dramatic mountain views in the world. dominated by 'Nameless Tower'. 6-7hours walking.
We continue gently upwards, passing the Yermanandu glacier which flows down from Masherbrum (7821m).
while the Muztagh Tower pierces the sky on the north side. At the head of the glacier Gasherbrum 4 looms
large. Tonight we camp on the glacier. 6-7 hours walking.
A shorter day takes us on up to 'Concordia', where we spend 1 night with a day's rest to aid acclimatization.
Here we are at the junction of the Baltoro, the Goodwin Austen and the Broad Peak glaciers. Within sight to the
north and east are four of the world's 8000m peaks. and a further 37 peaks in excess of 6500m! Where else in
the world would a mountain lover dream to be? 5 to 6 hours walking.
Final day Of trek to Gasherbrum I-II base camp, a 7-8 hrs trek will bring you to the base camp. Here you will say
good bye to your approach porters for about 5 weeks. Overnight in tents. All meals served by camp staff.
CLIMBING PERIOD (38 DAYS)
We leave GI-GII base camp and traverse towards Gondogoro La. The portion is difficult with crevasses. Once on
the Vigne Glacier it is a comparatively easy and gradual walk over snow and ice up to the camp. We will sleep
early to wake up very early tomorrow.
Starting in the early hours to minimize the risk Of stone fall as we descend from the Gondogoro La later. The
ascent is normally all on snow. and we may need to rope up to cross the glacier to the base of the pass. On the
steeper sections ropes are in place to use as a handrail and for safety. From the top the 'big four' are clear to
the northeast. and to the south we look down the Hushe valley dominated by the arrow-like Leila peak. The
descent is initially a 450 snow slope. with the angle easing and the snow changing to screed as we descend.
Our exact campsite for the night will be determined by our pace and whether or not we have been delayed.09
to 10 hours walking.
We continue on down the Gondogoro glacier. passing a camp at Dalsan and once Off the glacier pleasant
trekking through yak pastures and passing trees (the first we have seen since Paiju) take us to the village of
ShaishO and on to the road head at Hushe. 7 to 8 hours walking total.
Three to four hours trek through summer pastures and shepherd huts and along the Gondogoro River,
enjoying spectacular views of K6 (7282m), K7 (6934m). and Linksar (7041m) we reach Hushe village. Overnight
and meal in camp.
5-6 hours jeep ride will take us to Skardu along the Shyok and Indus Rivers. Afternoon de-breifing at Ministry
Of Tourism, Skardu. Meals and overnight at hotel.
Skardu de-briefing & final farewell dinner
Transfer to airport for flight to Islamabad if the flight operates otherwise drive (9 hours) to Chilas along the
Karakorum Highway. Meals and overnight at hotel.
Free day in Islamabad or drive to Islamabad from Chilas for 12 hours.
Transfer to Islamabad international airport and onward to your own destination.
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