Latok Ogre Expedition
SUCCESS & REPEAT:
Latok l, north-central, 7.145 m. climbed 1979
Latok II, west, 7,108 m, climbed 1977
Latok Ill. east. 6.949 m. climbed 1979
The Latok group is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh. part of the central Karakoram mountain
range in Pakistan. They lie just to the east Of the Ogre group, dominated by Baintha Brakk. TO the immediate south Of the Latok
group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary Of the BiafO Glacier. one Of the main glaciers Of the Karakoram. On the
north side of the group lies the Choktoi Glacier.
All of the summits are notable for their extreme technical difficulty. and they have been the scene of some of the hardest
climbing done at high altitude anywhere in the world.
LATOK-I:- was first climbed in 1979 by a Japanese expedition led by Naoki Takada: the first summit party comprised Sinte
Matsumi. Tsuneo Shigehiro, Yu Watanabe. and they were followed three days later by Hideo Muto, Jun’ichi Oku, and Kota Endo.
They started from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier and climbed a buttress to reach the East Ridge.
LATOK – II:- Latok II saw its first ascent in 1977. by an Italian group led by Arturo Bergamaschi. (This was the first successful
ascent in the group.) They climbed the southeast face Of the peak. and Ezio Alimonta, Toni Masé and Renato Valentini made the
LATOK – III:- The first ascent Of Latok Ill came in 1979. when a Japanese team under the leadership Of Yoji Teranishi climbed the
Southwest Ridge route. They climbed the Southwest Ridge. and the summit party were Teranishi. Kazushige Takami. and Sakae
Mori. The second ascent, via the same route. came in 1988, by an Italian party. This was in fact the first repeat ascent Of any
peak in the group.
Depart from your own destination, arriving Islamabad the next day and transfer to the hotel for a few hours'
sleep. After an early breakfast we return to the airport for the flight to Skardu, which usually departs mid-
morning. Given good weather this is perhaps the most spectacular commercial flight in the world. with
magnificent views of Nanga Parbat the ninth highest mountain in the world. The flight however will not
operate in poor weather. and you must be prepared for a wait in Islamabad if the flight is cancelled
In case of cancellation of flight (13-14 hrs) drive by coach to Chilas (480 km) on Karakoram Highway. Or Drive
to Chilas via the Babusar Pass 4173m. Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation Of 4.173 m (13.691
ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley. Pakistan. The pass connects the
Kaghan Valley via the ThakNala with Chilas on the Karakoram Highway. It's one of the famous hair pinned roads
in the world.
Complete road journey (10-11 hrs) to Skardu (275 km) En-route has good view of Nanga Parbat (8125m) at
junction of Indus River and the rapids and fall of Indus River.
Full day for official formalities and final preparation of Trek at Skardu.
After a free day in Skardu, we travel by Jeep to Askole, the last village between us and K2. This journey takes
about 7 hours and is on very rough narrow tracks often blocked / damaged by landslides.
Trek begins. The walk from Askoli to Namla is on an easy gentle plain first and then becomes difficult as we get
on to the snout Of BiafO Glacier. This will take about 6 to 8 hours. The first sight Of the pinnacles Of the Paiyu
Group is stunning.
This can take 7 hours or more. We walk on the moraines of Biafo Glacier as well as in an ablation valley. This is
not an easy walk as we trek on rocks most of the time.
From Mongo we get on to the white BiafO Glacier where the walking is easier and then we diagonally walk
across the Biafo to reach its Latok Ogre Base camp.
CLIMBINC PERIOD (16 DAYS)