Muztagh Tower Expedition
TO anyone who has had the opportunity to admire the wonderful photograph taken in 1909 by Vittorio Sella, the Muztagh Tower
must have appeared the symbol of inaccessibility. Its 23.800 ft. of vertical walls presented climbing problems of a different
order of severity from the ‘eight-thousanders’. Yet while the conquest of the fourteen highest summits of the earth is still not
completed. the Muztagh Tower has been conquered. In the month Of July 1956, a British expedition and a French expedition
saw their efforts crowned with success and eight men reached from two totally different sides of the mountain the summit of
this peak which appeared impregnable.
But we have a great anxiety: there is no longer any doubt that the British expedition led by John Hartog is aiming for the
Muztagh Tower. Including McNaught-Davis. Joe Brown and Dr. Patey, it is one of the best parties Of climbers that could be put
in the field. The British have been established on the Muztagh Glacier for a fortnight and are attacking by the Chagaran Glacier
and the northwest ridge. They are already high on the mountain.
Depart from your own destination. arriving Islamabad the next day and transfer to the hotel for a few hours'
sleep. After an early breakfast we return to the airport for the flight to Skardu. which usually departs mid-
morning. Given good weather this is perhaps the most spectacular commercial flight in the world. with
magnificent views of Nanga Parbat the ninth highest mountain in the world. The flight however will not
operate in poor weather, and you must be prepared for a wait in Islamabad if the flight is cancelled
In case of cancellation of flight (13-14 hrs) drive by coach to Chilas (480 km) on Karakoram Highway. Or Drive
to Chilas via the Babusar Pass 4173m. Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation Of 4.173 m (13.691
ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley. Pakistan. The pass connects the
Kaghan Valley via the ThakNala with Chilas on the Karakoram Highway. It's one of the famous hair pinned roads
in the world.
Complete road journey (10-11 hrs) to Skardu (275 km) En-route has good view of Nanga Parbat (8125m) at
junction Of Indus River and the rapids and fall Of Indus River.
Full day for official formalities and final preparation of Expedition at Skardu.
After a free day in Skardu, we travel by Jeep to Askole, the last village between us and K2. This journey takes
about 7 hours and is on very rough narrow tracks often blocked / damaged by landslides.
We set off early to avoid the heat of the day. We follow the Braldu river valley through green pastures and after
crossing the Biafo River we skirt around the base of the terminal moraines of the Glacier for lunch at Korophon.
Beyond here a new path has been cut through the cliffs making the walk to camp straightforward. 7 to 8 hours
We continue up the Braldo River. sometimes close to the raging water, sometimes taking a higher path used by
pack animals. If the weather is clear we get our first glimpse of Broad Peak today. Despite the stories in old
guide books and journals. much has been done in recent years to remove rubbish and human waste to leave a
much cleaner environment with well managed camps.7 to 8 hours walking.
An important resting day follows when the porters will prepare their food for the trek ahead. We will make a
side excursion to gain some altitude from where we can get superb views up the Baltoro Glacier.
Today we should get our first distant sight of Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums. A shorter day of walking up
the glacier to the campsite which is located on a grassy slope high above the Baltoro and commands one Of
the most dramatic mountain views in the world. dominated by 'Nameless Tower'. 6-7hours walking.
We continue gently upwards. passing the Yermanandu glacier which flows down from Masherbrum (7821m).
while the Muztagh Tower pierces the sky on the north side. At the head Of the glacier Gasherbrum 4 looms
large. Tonight we camp on the glacier. 6-7 hours walking.
CLIMBING PERIOD (20 DAYS)
Skardu de-briefing & final farewell dinner
Transfer to airport for flight to Islamabad if the flight operates otherwise drive (9 hours) to Chilas along the
Karakorum Highway. Meals and overnight at hotel.
Free day in Islamabad or drive to Islamabad from Chilas for 12 hours.
Transfer to Islamabad international airport and onward to your own destination.